by Brad Peck
The email comes in, "...there is a protest on 16th and H and the DC Metro police have closed the area to vehicle traffic The group protesting and the issue under protest are not clear..." I love a good protest, so with camera in hand I head out. Turns out they are protesting Colombian President Uribe's visit to the White House and urging President Obama to end all engagement with Colombia. One statement in particular, by the guy with the megaphone translating for the other guy with the megaphone, jumped out at me: "My village was bombed in 1996, this is the type of paramilitary violence President Uribe represents."
Certainly Colombia has suffered more that its share of horrific violence over the years and while the situation is far from perfect, as 35 former senior officials in Democratic Administrations and Democratic Members of Congress wrote last year:
...there has been substantial progress on all fronts since President Uribe took office. For example, the number of homicides of trade unionists in Colombia continues to be far lower than the overall homicide rate for the general population. These improvements coincided with a notable downturn in attacks by paramilitaries and the FARC beginning in 2002, underscoring the linkable between levels of violence and human rights abuses in Colombia and the activities of illegal armed groups.
Colombia in 2009 is a very different place than 13 years ago, my old best example was Medellin, once "a battlefield of drug lords, paramilitaries and leftist guerrillas" and now "one of the safest, most dynamic cities in Latin America." Now I have another:
In March, government agents shot and killed a notorious guerrilla chief known as Comandante Mauricio. His unit, called the "Bolsheviks," had rampaged through the countryside for years, kidnapping, extorting and murdering. Last month, a new group moved into Mauricio's old turf. Its leader, Steven Hilty, wore a khaki shirt and a fedora. He signaled his cohorts for quiet, scanned a tree line and then zeroed in on a target with his binoculars.
"That's it -- a yellow-headed brush-finch," Mr. Hilty told his fellow American bird-watchers. The finch is one of the more unusual birds in Colombia, which has 1,871 bird species, more than any other country. As Colombia finally gains the upper hand in its decades-long struggle against Marxist guerrillas, bird lovers are marching back into parts of this avian paradise which were only recently no man's lands. Birding tours are proliferating, reserves are sprouting up in former combat zones, and ornithologists are discovering new species and reacquainting themselves with ones not seen in years...
Birdquest, a Lancashire, England-based tour operator, started coming back to Colombia in 2007, after a seven-year hiatus. Pete Morris, who has guided three Birdquest tours to Colombia in the past two years, says he now often feels safer in Colombia than in some of the more established destinations such as Venezuela or Peru, where petty crime can be a problem...
In hindsight, say birders, the best thing to happen to Colombian birding was the ascension in 2002 of conservative President Álvaro Uribe. With U.S. backing, Mr. Uribe took the offensive against the guerrillas by increasing the size of security forces by about 30%. Last year three top guerrilla leaders perished, while surviving rebels were driven deep into the jungle.
Turning our back on Colombia will only turn back the clock – the protestors today might want to be careful what they are wishing upon the people of Colombia.